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The Past is Always Present in California's San Luis Obispo


One day in September 1772 a small party of Spanish soldiers and two priests entered a broad, oak-filled California valley. They were in a hurry: urgent business waited in San Diego, more than 300 miles to the south, and it would be weeks before they reached their destination.

 

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. Morro Rock in the nearby town of Morro Bay was used by sailors for centuries as a navigational aid.Despite the big rush, the group's leader – a Franciscan priest named Junipero Serra – called a halt. He liked what he saw in this valley. Berries and fruit trees grew in abundance; deer, bear and smaller game were plentiful; ocean fishing was an hour or two to the west. Such bountiful terrain would ably support a small community.

Before the day was out, Serra selected land to suit his purposes. It was flat and fertile, and through its heart ran a broad stream, still swiftly flowing at the end of the annual drought. At his satisfied nod, the soldiers quickly lashed together grasses and branches to form a rude shelter, and, as dusk deepened, the men kneeled inside while Serra said mass. It was the first religious ceremony ever held at the fifth and newest California Mission, San Luis Obispo de Tolosa.

Next day Serra continued his southward trek, leaving behind five soldiers and a young priest. Imagine those six men standing silently, deep in the isolated valley, as they watched their friends slowly climb a hill and disappear over the top. Surely each felt a stab of fear or loneliness at that moment. But those emotions would have quickly evaporated as they turned attention to the overwhelming task before them. If they were to create a community in the middle of nowhere, and if it were to thrive, they had better not waste time.

Fast-forward 230 years. San Luis Obispo, a small, vigorous city of just over 43,000, does indeed thrive. Not too long ago it was voted "second best small city in America" by Money Magazine, and it's easy to see why. Life in SLO, as it's fondly called by locals, is good. The city is charming and the surrounding countryside is beautiful. The economy grows at a steady 1 percent a year. Downtown shops, including a few discreetly housed national chains, prosper. A burgeoning wine industry has grown up in the nearby hills. Hotels and restaurants bustle. The respected California Polytechnic State University not only provides an intellectual backdrop, but hosts top entertainers like Ray Charles, Faith Hill and the Paul Taylor Dance Company in its new performing arts center.

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. One of San Luis Obispo’s many links to the past is The San Luis Obispo Mission and its beautiful courtyards.But the thing that makes San Luis Obispo stand apart from many another successful small city is this: intertwined with all its prosperous modernity is a joyful respect for the past. History is everywhere you look in this handsome place, resting comfortably beside the present. The imposing stucco mission buildings that replaced that hastily built shack stands, both literally and figuratively, in the heart of downtown. San Luis Creek still flows beside it, shaded by giant oaks. If you narrow your eyes and tune out the car traffic, it's not all that hard to imagine how the site might have looked to Serra and his companions.

Located midway between Los Angeles (200 miles south) and San Francisco (235 miles north) – just at the point where the Pacific Coast Highway and U.S.101 briefly merge – it's a convenient resting spot for anyone who wants to explore California's bountiful central coast. In and around SLO's 10.5 square miles you'll find spectacular beaches, excellent wine tasting, entertainment, good dining, history, fine art and just about all the warm-weather sports and activities you could want. An added plus: Hearst Castle is less than one (stunningly beautiful) hour's drive up the coast.

Mission Plaza: Honoring a Glorious Past

 

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. Crowds flock every week to the Thursday Night Farmers' Market.San Luis Obispo grew outward from its church compound, which today sits smack-dab at the city's center in an area known as Mission Plaza. A beautiful, tree-lined pedestrian park, it's a deservedly popular gathering spot. Benches and terraces overlook the creek, inviting picnics and noontime siestas. The area is never busier than on Thursday evenings, when local streets are blocked to traffic and the weekly Farmers' Market takes over. Organic farmers sell sensational-looking local produce while bands play anything from Cajun to hiphop; fast-food vendors hawk grilled pork ribs and Thai noodles; puppet masters entertain giggling tots – and everyone has a ball.

But let's get back to the Mission. It was here that the first roofing tiles associated with "Mission architecture" were made. Local clay, after being thoroughly worked in pits by animal hoofs, was molded over wooden forms, sun-dried and baked. Tiles were a great improvement over thatched roofs, providing protection from fire and rain, and were quickly copied by other Missions. At various stages in its long history, SLO’s Mission buildings have burned, fallen into disrepair, been used as the county jail and courthouse, and once housed the offices of John C. Fremont, the famed western explorer, soldier and U.S. Senator.

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. The church at The San Luis Obispo Mission still holds regular services.Today the Mission is an operating Catholic church which holds regular Mass and, thus, remains vital to the community. It's also a major tourist draw, thanks to the pristinely maintained church with its beamed ceiling and carefully preserved frescoes, as well as the compound's columned colonnade, charming courtyard and colorful gardens. By the way, the Mission's museum may be small, but it's brimming with fascinating historical artifacts.

In the streets surrounding the plaza are about two-dozen buildings from the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries. All are lovingly maintained, and each has a fascinating story to tell. A must is the Dallidet Adobe, built about 1859 by Pierre Dallidet. A Frenchman, who came to San Luis Obispo after going bust in the gold fields, he eventually established the first commercial winery on California's central coast. The adobe, which retains most of its original furnishings, is open during limited hours.

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. The Ah Louis Store is one of the many beautifully preserved 19th century buildings in the downtown area.A quick walking tour of downtown will reveal other fine old buildings. The 1884 solid-brick Ah Louis Store once served as a bank, post office and market for the Chinese laborers who constructed nearby railroad tunnels. The Ramona train depot (1889) sat beside a luxurious Victorian hotel, long since burned down, that hosted U.S. presidents William McKinley and Theodore Roosevelt. The 1906 Creamery, which now contains an assortment of shops, sold residents their milk and cheese for years. The Andrews Bank Building (1898) now houses the County Historical Museum. And don't overlook Jack House (1875). A fully restored "living museum," this handsome Victorian will give you a glimpse of home life at the end of the 19th century.

Art and Culture Surround You

As you wander along the downtown streets you'll notice more than a dozen major works of sculpture. At the plaza, directly in front of the church, is Paula Zima's 1988 bronze fountain sculpture, "Tequski Wa Suwa," which pays tribute to the native Chumash tribe. Michelle Griffoul’s whimsical ceramic tribute to automobiles graces the corner of Chorro and Marsh Streets. An abstract metal sculpture by Nancy Dunn sits outside the entrance to the local Art Center – which, by the way, exhibits excellent work by local artists and is well worth a visit.

Numerous art galleries and antique shops populate downtown. A few of them (Palm Street Antiques, for example) are located in beautiful old buildings. Be sure to check out the prints and paintings by John Ramos at his Higuera Street gallery. If you love the California coast you're almost certain to be delighted by this gifted artist and his colorful, slight pop-art take on beach life and other aspects of California.

The state-of-the-art 1,350-seat Performing Arts Center is busy most nights. Previous entertainments have included a Mozart festival, Ottmar Liebert, Gordon Lightfoot, Randy Newman, Natalie Cole, George Winston, Chicago, Stomp, Queen Ida, Bill Cosby, Judy Collins, Tom Jones, B.B. King, Gordon Lightfoot, Jefferson Starship and many more.

An Historical Spa

In the early 1900s, W.C. Fields and other Hollywood celebrities often traveled to San Luis Hot Sulphur Springs to enjoy the spa's rejuvenating mineral waters. Today, known as Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort, it's a popular spot with locals and visitors alike.

More than 50 guestrooms cover a wide price range, from inexpensive on up. No matter which price plan you choose, however, your room will have its own private balcony and mineral spa. If you've only got an hour or two to spare, head for "Hot Tub Hill," where you can rent one of 25 private redwood hot tubs by the hour (this is a great way to break up the long Los Angeles/San Francisco journey). As you ascend the hill on a wooden stairway, discreet pathways branch off into the oaks and sycamores, leading you to a tub obscured from the view of others by its own redwood baffle. You might also want to sample a massage, the heated swimming pool or a fine meal in the onsite restaurant, The Gardens of Avila.

Getaway Jaunts

 

If a sport doesn't need snow, chances are that you'll be able to do it hereabouts. Hiking, for instance: five state parks, a national forest and a few wilderness areas make the area a walking and backpacking paradise. You can also rent equipment or take lessons for windsurfing, surfing, inline skating, horseback riding, deep-sea fishing, scuba diving, kayaking, biking, canoeing and probably a few I haven't thought of. There's even a public shooting range and a miniature golf course that claims to be the world's most difficult.

Of course, jaunts don't have to be athletic. The top three SLO getaways, in fact, have little to do with physical exertion. They are, in no particular order: Hearst Castle, wine tasting and beaching it.

Forty-five miles up the coast, high atop a hill, is Hearst Castle, the magnificent 165-room retreat built by newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst with the help of famed architect Julia Morgan. Construction, begun in 1919, wasn't completed for another 28 years. Long before that, however, Hearst had filled the place with priceless old-world treasures and was entertaining the day's most famous celebrities. The basic tour brings you into Hearst’s private theater to watch a short and entertaining film about the castle's heyday, when movie stars like Cary Grant and Joan Crawford stayed in the luxurious guesthouses.

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. One of the many pools at Hearst Castle.Along the way you'll catch stunning ocean views from the terraces, be awestruck by the many swimming pools, and admire the carefully groomed gardens back dropped by the wild coastal hills. Photo ops are plentiful, so be sure to bring plenty of film.

Another popular diversion in these parts is wine tasting. Nearly 60 wineries are based in SLO County – more than 20 in the Edna Valley/Arroyo Grande region just south of the city. Some of California's premium wines are produced here, from the familiar cabernets, zins and chardonnays to more exotic varieties like Gewürtztraminer or Riesling. You'll cruise from one winery to the next on sparsely populated roads, past scenic spots just perfect for a lingering picnic. The winery buildings you'll visit range from luxurious to utilitarian. The big tasting room at Laetitia Winery is little short of gorgeous, offering 180-degree views of the ocean and valley. Claiborne & Churchill boasts walls built from straw bales, and award-winning Windemere operates from a warehouse in an industrial complex.

As for the area's beaches, you'll find everything from isolated coves à deux to bustling marinas. As you meander along the coast you might see – depending on the time of year – the spouting of migrating whales, entire beaches filled with elephant seals, huge swarms of Monarch butterflies, courting herons, and an ever-changing cast of birds cruising the Pacific Flyway.

When You Go:

Where to Stay

Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort, 1215 Avila Beach Drive: 800-234-5831, www.sycamoresprings.com. Rates depend on season, day of the week and room size ($109 to $300). Special packages available. Private tubs on "Hot Tub Hill" are $10 per hour.

Madonna Inn, 100 Madonna Road: 800-543-9666, www.madonnainn.com. A truly unique hostelry, with each of its 109 rooms reflecting a special theme. The "Caveman Room" ($195) has solid-rock floors, walls and ceilings, a waterfall for bathing, and a faux-leopard spread on the king-sized bed. "Old Mexico" ($175) showcases wrought iron lamps and hand-tooled leather furnishings.

La Questa Motor Inn, 2074 Monterey Street: 800-543-2777. The Mission is an easy 15-minute walk from this inexpensive, conveniently located inn. The staff is extremely friendly and helpful.

Other Information

San Luis Obispo Chamber of Commerce, 1039 Chorro Street: 805-781-2777, www.visitslo.com. These friendly folks, located just off Mission Plaza, will be happy to answer your questions about lodging, restaurants, wineries and what to see. Feel free to stop in for maps, wine-touring guides, EZ Access Guide and other helpful info. Most publications are free, though the official visitor's guide is a real bargain at $2.95.

Dallidet Adobe and Gardens, 1185 Pacific Street: 805-543-6762. Open every Sunday from Memorial Day through Labor Day.

San Luis Obispo Art Center, 1010 Broad Street at Mission Plaza: 805-543-8562, www.sloartcenter.org.

John Ramos Gallery, 385 Higuera Street: 805-545-5979 or www.johnramos.com/main.html.

Hearst Castle (in San Simeon): 805-927-2020 or www.hearstcastle.org. During the summer and on weekends it's best to make tour reservations in advance. Four separate tours show various aspects of the castle, guesthouses and/or grounds. Tour 1 is recommended for first-time visitors.

Mission Plaza: Honoring a Glorious Past

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. Crowds flock every week to the Thursday Night Farmers' Market.San Luis Obispo grew outward from its church compound, which today sits smack-dab at the city's center in an area known as Mission Plaza. A beautiful, tree-lined pedestrian park, it's a deservedly popular gathering spot. Benches and terraces overlook the creek, inviting picnics and noontime siestas. The area is never busier than on Thursday evenings, when local streets are blocked to traffic and the weekly Farmers' Market takes over. Organic farmers sell sensational-looking local produce while bands play anything from Cajun to hiphop; fast-food vendors hawk grilled pork ribs and Thai noodles; puppet masters entertain giggling tots – and everyone has a ball.

But let's get back to the Mission. It was here that the first roofing tiles associated with "Mission architecture" were made. Local clay, after being thoroughly worked in pits by animal hoofs, was molded over wooden forms, sun-dried and baked. Tiles were a great improvement over thatched roofs, providing protection from fire and rain, and were quickly copied by other Missions. At various stages in its long history, SLO’s Mission buildings have burned, fallen into disrepair, been used as the county jail and courthouse, and once housed the offices of John C. Fremont, the famed western explorer, soldier and U.S. Senator.

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. The church at The San Luis Obispo Mission still holds regular services.Today the Mission is an operating Catholic church which holds regular Mass and, thus, remains vital to the community. It's also a major tourist draw, thanks to the pristinely maintained church with its beamed ceiling and carefully preserved frescoes, as well as the compound's columned colonnade, charming courtyard and colorful gardens. By the way, the Mission's museum may be small, but it's brimming with fascinating historical artifacts.

In the streets surrounding the plaza are about two-dozen buildings from the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries. All are lovingly maintained, and each has a fascinating story to tell. A must is the Dallidet Adobe, built about 1859 by Pierre Dallidet. A Frenchman, who came to San Luis Obispo after going bust in the gold fields, he eventually established the first commercial winery on California's central coast. The adobe, which retains most of its original furnishings, is open during limited hours.

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. The Ah Louis Store is one of the many beautifully preserved 19th century buildings in the downtown area.A quick walking tour of downtown will reveal other fine old buildings. The 1884 solid-brick Ah Louis Store once served as a bank, post office and market for the Chinese laborers who constructed nearby railroad tunnels. The Ramona train depot (1889) sat beside a luxurious Victorian hotel, long since burned down, that hosted U.S. presidents William McKinley and Theodore Roosevelt. The 1906 Creamery, which now contains an assortment of shops, sold residents their milk and cheese for years. The Andrews Bank Building (1898) now houses the County Historical Museum. And don't overlook Jack House (1875). A fully restored "living museum," this handsome Victorian will give you a glimpse of home life at the end of the 19th century.

Art and Culture Surround You

As you wander along the downtown streets you'll notice more than a dozen major works of sculpture. At the plaza, directly in front of the church, is Paula Zima's 1988 bronze fountain sculpture, "Tequski Wa Suwa," which pays tribute to the native Chumash tribe. Michelle Griffoul’s whimsical ceramic tribute to automobiles graces the corner of Chorro and Marsh Streets. An abstract metal sculpture by Nancy Dunn sits outside the entrance to the local Art Center – which, by the way, exhibits excellent work by local artists and is well worth a visit.

Numerous art galleries and antique shops populate downtown. A few of them (Palm Street Antiques, for example) are located in beautiful old buildings. Be sure to check out the prints and paintings by John Ramos at his Higuera Street gallery. If you love the California coast you're almost certain to be delighted by this gifted artist and his colorful, slight pop-art take on beach life and other aspects of California.

The state-of-the-art 1,350-seat Performing Arts Center is busy most nights. Previous entertainments have included a Mozart festival, Ottmar Liebert, Gordon Lightfoot, Randy Newman, Natalie Cole, George Winston, Chicago, Stomp, Queen Ida, Bill Cosby, Judy Collins, Tom Jones, B.B. King, Gordon Lightfoot, Jefferson Starship and many more.

An Historical Spa

In the early 1900s, W.C. Fields and other Hollywood celebrities often traveled to San Luis Hot Sulphur Springs to enjoy the spa's rejuvenating mineral waters. Today, known as Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort, it's a popular spot with locals and visitors alike.

More than 50 guestrooms cover a wide price range, from inexpensive on up. No matter which price plan you choose, however, your room will have its own private balcony and mineral spa. If you've only got an hour or two to spare, head for "Hot Tub Hill," where you can rent one of 25 private redwood hot tubs by the hour (this is a great way to break up the long Los Angeles/San Francisco journey). As you ascend the hill on a wooden stairway, discreet pathways branch off into the oaks and sycamores, leading you to a tub obscured from the view of others by its own redwood baffle. You might also want to sample a massage, the heated swimming pool or a fine meal in the onsite restaurant, The Gardens of Avila.

Getaway Jaunts

If a sport doesn't need snow, chances are that you'll be able to do it hereabouts. Hiking, for instance: five state parks, a national forest and a few wilderness areas make the area a walking and backpacking paradise. You can also rent equipment or take lessons for windsurfing, surfing, inline skating, horseback riding, deep-sea fishing, scuba diving, kayaking, biking, canoeing and probably a few I haven't thought of. There's even a public shooting range and a miniature golf course that claims to be the world's most difficult.

Of course, jaunts don't have to be athletic. The top three SLO getaways, in fact, have little to do with physical exertion. They are, in no particular order: Hearst Castle, wine tasting and beaching it.

Forty-five miles up the coast, high atop a hill, is Hearst Castle, the magnificent 165-room retreat built by newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst with the help of famed architect Julia Morgan. Construction, begun in 1919, wasn't completed for another 28 years. Long before that, however, Hearst had filled the place with priceless old-world treasures and was entertaining the day's most famous celebrities. The basic tour brings you into Hearst’s private theater to watch a short and entertaining film about the castle's heyday, when movie stars like Cary Grant and Joan Crawford stayed in the luxurious guesthouses.

Copyright Suzie Rodriguez. One of the many pools at Hearst Castle.Along the way you'll catch stunning ocean views from the terraces, be awestruck by the many swimming pools, and admire the carefully groomed gardens back dropped by the wild coastal hills. Photo ops are plentiful, so be sure to bring plenty of film.

Another popular diversion in these parts is wine tasting. Nearly 60 wineries are based in SLO County – more than 20 in the Edna Valley/Arroyo Grande region just south of the city. Some of California's premium wines are produced here, from the familiar cabernets, zins and chardonnays to more exotic varieties like Gewürtztraminer or Riesling. You'll cruise from one winery to the next on sparsely populated roads, past scenic spots just perfect for a lingering picnic. The winery buildings you'll visit range from luxurious to utilitarian. The big tasting room at Laetitia Winery is little short of gorgeous, offering 180-degree views of the ocean and valley. Claiborne & Churchill boasts walls built from straw bales, and award-winning Windemere operates from a warehouse in an industrial complex.

As for the area's beaches, you'll find everything from isolated coves à deux to bustling marinas. As you meander along the coast you might see – depending on the time of year – the spouting of migrating whales, entire beaches filled with elephant seals, huge swarms of Monarch butterflies, courting herons, and an ever-changing cast of birds cruising the Pacific Flyway.

When You Go:

Where to Stay

Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort, 1215 Avila Beach Drive: 800-234-5831, www.sycamoresprings.com. Rates depend on season, day of the week and room size ($109 to $300). Special packages available. Private tubs on "Hot Tub Hill" are $10 per hour.

Madonna Inn, 100 Madonna Road: 800-543-9666, www.madonnainn.com. A truly unique hostelry, with each of its 109 rooms reflecting a special theme. The "Caveman Room" ($195) has solid-rock floors, walls and ceilings, a waterfall for bathing, and a faux-leopard spread on the king-sized bed. "Old Mexico" ($175) showcases wrought iron lamps and hand-tooled leather furnishings.

La Questa Motor Inn, 2074 Monterey Street: 800-543-2777. The Mission is an easy 15-minute walk from this inexpensive, conveniently located inn. The staff is extremely friendly and helpful.

Other Information

San Luis Obispo Chamber of Commerce, 1039 Chorro Street: 805-781-2777, www.visitslo.com. These friendly folks, located just off Mission Plaza, will be happy to answer your questions about lodging, restaurants, wineries and what to see. Feel free to stop in for maps, wine-touring guides, EZ Access Guide and other helpful info. Most publications are free, though the official visitor's guide is a real bargain at $2.95.

Dallidet Adobe and Gardens, 1185 Pacific Street: 805-543-6762. Open every Sunday from Memorial Day through Labor Day.

San Luis Obispo Art Center, 1010 Broad Street at Mission Plaza: 805-543-8562, www.sloartcenter.org.

John Ramos Gallery, 385 Higuera Street: 805-545-5979 or www.johnramos.com/main.html.

Hearst Castle (in San Simeon): 805-927-2020 or www.hearstcastle.org. During the summer and on weekends it's best to make tour reservations in advance. Four separate tours show various aspects of the castle, guesthouses and/or grounds. Tour 1 is recommended for first-time visitors.